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Wasp Down!
#1
I have the Wasp-b with UAR components. I installed per your excellent tutorial and tested the sensors as I went. Everything is installed correctly until I went to test it sans ho-pup/ barrel. I successfully got the gearbox to cycle 3 times in single shot then nothing. I was going to check my sensor wiring but the unit no longer shows any power/ activity lights.  I was testing with a 7.4 lipo(fully Charged). I grabbed another battery but the unit still did not function. Plugged batteries in to my M4 DMR and they worked. I checked them with a volt meter and they are good. Just to make sure my gearbox or motor was somehow not causing a problem I grabbed my ole Merf 3.2 and tested ( I just bridged the trigger wires for the Merf ) and my UAR jumped to life and the gearbox cycled with no issues. I let the WASP sit for 30 minutes for the Hell of it and re-plugged it in and nothing. Is there an RMA procedure to follow.  I bought it off Ebay if that matters.
#2
Which option do you want to do?
If exchange, I will send you a label. Print it and box up the FCU only. Drop it in the mail. As soon as PO scans it, I will send a replacement FCU.
If refund, just return the complete package and refund issued when received.

Assuming you want a FCU exchange then need to try to prevent a reoccurrence.
Did you use a inline fuse between battery and WASP?
Did you go thru the troubleshooting procedure included in the product sheet? 
Disconnect the FCU from sensor and motor. Plug into a battery. Does it flash after a few seconds?
If not, probable fuse. With nothing connected to FCU, you can check the fuse by continuity testing between battery side deans to motor side deans connectors. If its open its bad. 
if its short, then fuse good. Maybe bad deans connector mating and check for dirty contacts. 
Also check the brake by continuity test between motor side deans connector terminals. If its shorted, then its bad, but this would also blow the fuse.
Are you running a high load setup such as hi speed motor, heavy spring, hi speed gears, etc? Hi C + Hi current battery?
Maybe a heavier fuse is needed in a replacement.
#3
Assuming you want a FCU exchange then need to try to prevent a reoccurrence.
Did you use a inline fuse between battery and WASP? 25a inline not blown
Did you go thru the troubleshooting procedure included in the product sheet? Yes
Disconnect the FCU from sensor and motor. Plug into a battery. Does it flash after a few seconds? No
If not, probable fuse. With nothing connected to FCU, you can check the fuse by continuity testing between battery side deans to motor side deans connectors. If its open its bad. Positive to positive-open/ Negative to Negative- closed
if its short, then fuse good. Maybe bad deans connector mating and check for dirty contacts. 
Also check the brake by continuity test between motor side deans connector terminals. If its shorted, then its bad, but this would also blow the fuse. Closed and readings jumping all over
Are you running a high load setup such as hi speed motor, heavy spring, hi speed gears, etc? Hi C + Hi current battery? 7.4v lipo 15-25c, m120 spring, high torque motor
Maybe a heavier fuse is needed in a replacement.

When using the test mode while checking all sensors I did NOT have the motor connected. I only connected the motor AFTER the install was complete.

Your WASP is way too nice to ask for a refund. I would absolutely appreciate a replacement.  This was the first of many purchases I plan on making.
#4
(05-20-2017, 12:23 AM)LordSmack Wrote: Assuming you want a FCU exchange then need to try to prevent a reoccurrence.
Did you use a inline fuse between battery and WASP? 25a inline not blown
Did you go thru the troubleshooting procedure included in the product sheet? Yes
Disconnect the FCU from sensor and motor. Plug into a battery. Does it flash after a few seconds? No
If not, probable fuse. With nothing connected to FCU, you can check the fuse by continuity testing between battery side deans to motor side deans connectors. If its open its bad. Positive to positive-open/ Negative to Negative- closed
if its short, then fuse good. Maybe bad deans connector mating and check for dirty contacts. 
Also check the brake by continuity test between motor side deans connector terminals. If its shorted, then its bad, but this would also blow the fuse. Closed and readings jumping all over
Are you running a high load setup such as hi speed motor, heavy spring, hi speed gears, etc? Hi C + Hi current battery? 7.4v lipo 15-25c, m120 spring, high torque motor
Maybe a heavier fuse is needed in a replacement.

When using the test mode while checking all sensors I did NOT have the motor connected. I only connected the motor AFTER the install was complete.

Your WASP is way too nice to ask for a refund. I would absolutely appreciate a replacement.  This was the first of many purchases I plan on making.
#5
I should note I usually run my rig with an 11.1 15-20c but its built into the upper and I tested with the 7.4 because it was easier to get to.
#6
your setup is fairly light sofar as load. So we'll try another of the same. Sending label.
#7
(05-20-2017, 12:33 AM)admin Wrote: your setup is fairly light sofar as load. So we'll try another of the same. Sending label.

Thanks!
#8
Thumbs Up 
Recieved your defective FCU and it was just a blown fuse. Tested it on a hispeed rig and it works fine aside from a bad fuse. Your main fuse should have blown instead, so when you install the replacement, recommend you use a 20AMP fast blow fuse between it and the battery to test it out. When you're confident, put it the way you like it. Let us know how it goes.
#9
Got the replacement in and it works AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!! Except it won't function properly with my echo1 high torque motor. It works fine with my stock motor( I have 2 v1 UAR's). With my high torque I can get 3-4 consecutive 3 round bursts before the thermal shutdown kicks in. The motor is barely warm to the touch. with the stock it has no issues albeit a slower ROF with a 7.4 Lipo and an M120. Should I chock this up to a bad motor? I know SHS run hot so I wont replace it with that.
#10
(06-08-2017, 11:42 PM)LordSmack Wrote: Got the replacement in and it works AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!! Except it won't function properly with my echo1 high torque motor. It works fine with my stock motor( I have 2 v1 UAR's). With my high torque I can get 3-4 consecutive 3 round bursts before the thermal shutdown kicks in. The motor is barely warm to the touch. with the stock it has no issues albeit a slower ROF with a 7.4 Lipo and an M120. Should I chock this up to a bad motor? I know SHS run hot so I wont replace it with that.
Yes, you absolutely have a problem.  I have run SHS no problems, even an SHS hispeed motor with a M120 will last far beyond what you are experiencing. That kind of current will blow fuses.
  


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